Day Three: Mountain Drive to Northern Oman

Today we will be soak up the serene landscapes of one of Oman’s most scenic areas while driving to Nizwa. While on the way to Nizwa, we will stop by Jebel Al Akhdar, Jebel Shams, Birkat al Mauz, Saiq Plateau, and Wadi Bani Habib.

As the city’s location where the mountains begin has long made it a key strategic position in the Hajar mountains of Oman, Nizwa has long history stretches back through the ages. Nizwa became a centre of art, culture, religion and science, much of which has shaped the way the city looks and feels today as a tourist destination, and although it lost its prominence to Muscat as the most important city in Oman, it is still very much a part of the modern nation and its enduring history.

No trip to Nizwa is complete without exploring the surrounding mountains of the Hajar Range, because these high peaks have played such an important role in the history of the city and of Oman. Jebel Shams is the tallest mountain in Oman, and with a four by four you can drive close to the summit, for incredible views over the impressive canyon that drops almost a thousand metres to the ground below.

With that said, Jebel Shams isn’t well known for the peak itself, but the sometimes nerve-wracking views down into Wadi Ghul. Wadi Ghul is known as the Grand Canyon of Arabia. Several treks can be done in the mountains and wadis, but do come prepared with enough water. Jebel Shams can be visited as a day trip from Nizwa or even Muscat, but it’s highly recommended to camp up here for a night especially for those wanting to catch the sunrise over the rugged landscape.

Jebel Akhdar is another high mountain peak in the Hajar Range and is found closer to Nizwa. Jebel Akhdar translates to English as the Green Mountain, because this is a verdant area of greenery and sweeping landscapes like no other in Oman.

The road to Jebel Akhdar can be very steep incline and decline so 4WD is one of the requirement if your car is not 4WD, the Royal Oman Police will turn you around at the checkpoint.

Next we drive to the old village of Wadi Bani Habib. Wadi Bani Habib is situated within the mountains of Jebel Al Akhdar, one of the prominent mountain chains close to Nizwa in Oman. About 2000m above sea level, today, the Wadi consists of abandoned villages and fruit orchards.

This forgotten villages last inhabited 40 years ago, the structures cling to the rocky mountain surface of Jebel Al Akhdar literally meaning ‘The Green Mountain’. Lush apple, pomegranate, and apricot orchards helped sustain the life of the villagers. The strategic location of the village also aided in defending the Wadi in previous days.

The approach to the village is anything but straightforward. One needs to climb a large number of stairs to get to the base of the Wadi after which a short trek gets you to the first house of the settlement. I remembered there is one certain point where my legs shaking so badly because I have fear of height. The higher I climbed the stairs, the more fear I am and I told myself don't look down and be strong.

We spend couple of hours walking around this abandoned village. An interesting feature of the area is the ‘Falaj’ system of irrigation which are narrow channels that distribute water in the orchards.

We also visit Birkat al Mauz. During the early and mid-1900's, the villages in this area acted as city states rather than Wilayat within Oman. During the same time period, the Oman interior was separate from Muscat. In the 1950, Birkat al Mauz was one of the fortresses of the Bani Riyam tribe who controlled the Hajar Mountain region.

A view atop the remnants of the watchtower.

Today, the village stands as a testament to the traditional style of Omani houses; two stories, small alleyways leading to neighbours houses. Stairways, twisting up narrow corridors. Palm leaves tied together and cemented with mud to create the ceilings. The fact that most of the houses still stand, to a certain degree, shows the workmanship in their construction. Many of the houses have the sun shining through their ceilings now, the odd wicker basket remains tucked into a corner of a room.

The old falaj running through the village is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site allowing the village to remain protected. Hopefully this little village will stand up to the elements and remain here for a long time to come; it’s amazing how well the mud brick houses last – they’re extremely well made!

Love.

Elene